Take Two

I forget, every time that I travel alone, that the first 24 hours are a bit miserable. The time zone change, the lack of showering, the quiet but constant terror that all your plans are going to fall through and that you'll be left alone at a dark bus station at 3 AM... each time it occurs it feels like the worst thing EVER, all over again. And then, of course, it's fine.

I have to admit, though, that my first 24 hours at SRH might take the prize for the worst way I've ever introduced myself to a new country. The flights here were smooth as could be (hat tip to you, Lufthansa), and the Hyderbadi airport at midnight was remarkably cheerful and peaceful - the pick-up area was outdoors and the smell of some fancy flower was wooshing around the escalators. Folks in saris were lolling around under trees just outside. It looked like a happening spot. But we whisked away through the night, heading west (I think - good maps are thin on the ground here), zipping around little mopeds, until we arrived at the compound gates. Got in my apartment, met Theresa, the X-Ray tech who seems to be my self-appointed guardian, and crashed out quickly. So far, so good.

The trouble began the next morning. Slept right through my alarm and woke up already late, with Theresa chiding me through the door as I hopped into what I hoped was an appropriately conservative outfit. But these are not a group who skip breakfast, late or no - I was hustled over to the dining room and promptly issued a plate of rice-with-mixed-vegetables patties, coupled with a spicy sort of chutney sauce. Watched eagerly by no less than five women from the kitchen, I tried to 1) eat only with my right hand 2) really look like I was enjoying the food, and 3) ignoring the increasingly itchy feeling in my mouth.

Damn you, societal norms. By the time I was walking to meet the chief medical officer five minutes later, I knew I'd eaten something delightfully anaphylactic. My throat was already swelling up, not the point of breathing problems (it's OK, Mom!), but definitely to the point where my voice sounded pretty goofy as I was trying to introduce myself to board members. I spent the next 3 hours touring the campus, sneaking off at one point to load up on benadryl and urging my immune system to quit freaking out.

Well. Suffice it to say that the morning ended with me vomiting uncontrollably three to four times off the side of the path, skirt neatly tucked up under me, as a local physiotherapist watched on in mild horror. (White people are so. weird.) Slept a sweaty, itchy sleep for the next few hours, emerged for watermelon and crackers, then decided to call the day a wash and slept until this morning. Day 1!

Day 2 has been much, much better. First, in terms of food: I was initially afraid this morning that my quest to avoid nuts would leave me eating nothing but rice and chai tea for three weeks ("Local Medical Student Develops Scurvy on Infectious Disease Rotation"), but lunch and dinner both went down fine today. Theresa has taught me the words for "cashew" and "peanut" - seemingly useful, but the main cook looked at me like I was crazy when I tried to ask tonight. We'll see.

Second, in terms of work: spent the day seeing leprosy patients with a trio of docs here. Leprosy is alive and well in India, no doubt about it. Lots of new patients, some of them children, and many with long-term complications. The learning curve is steep but very interesting. Tomorrow's guide might be a bit of a Leprosy 101.

Third, in terms of getting on the grid: like a chump, I forgot my computer microphone, thus making computer-to-computer Skyping a bit of a non-starter. However! With the help of the very competent Krishna who works here, I now have a viable cell phone. Email me if you'd like the number. I wouldn't suggest doing a phone-to-phone call, but the Skype-to-phone rates to India are very reasonable. [Me waggling my head at you in the Indian way that means "yes"]